I spent last night sleeping on a mattress on the floor of a pulpareria, a Tico convenience store with everything from ball bearings to pasta sauce to pajamas. I hope that this first experience with fieldwork is just a taste of the rest of my summer with Chris Graham.
We had planned to take a day trip to Las Alturas, the continuous forest site connected to La Amistad International Park. Chris wanted to check on a few of the plots that he had set up last spring and his field assistants, Martin and Jose Pablo, started to build some of the exclosures, or 2 by 2 meter fences that keep out mammals of different sizes. We had a great hike into forest up through pastures set precariously on hillsides. I almost expected to see cows with short legs on one side and long on the other, just to help them keep their balance on the slopes. The forest is very similar to Las Cruces; it has the same kinds of trees, the same palms and cycads in the understory, the same thick vines wrapping around trunks. But it feels more wild. We follow machete cuts instead of clear, lined trails to reach the study plots. We hear only insects and birds, rather than the traffic noise that is ubiquitous at Las Cruces. It creates that wonderful feeling of being out in the middle of nowhere.
Martin and Jose Pablo had brought camping gear so that the could spent the night and finish working in the morning. Because Chris wanted to check up on this plots back at Las Cruces, we only stayed until 3 or so in the afternoon to get on the road before the rains hit and turned the dirt roads into red streams of muddy clay. Before we reached the edge of the forest, it started to pour. Chris and I were both soaked to the skin. In wet socks, we hiked back through the pastures and promptly disoriented ourselves. Pastures do not have reliable landmarks, just one kind of invasive grass. We eventually found our way back to the road and the two of us piled into the car.
Then it refused to start. Just sputtered and clicked a little bit when Chris turned the ignition. Now this car has a history of being uncooperative. Chris and Martin bought it dirt-cheap and it was dirt-cheap for a reason. The four-wheel drive fizzled out last month and, to keep the car in first gear, you have to really hold down the shifter (and hope. Sometimes it takes ten tries before it finally shifts into first gear). Along with all these problems, the battery or the alternator had apparently died. By this time, the sun had already started to set, so we walked up the hill to the closet town, Agua Caliente, by flashlight.
We found the local (and only) mechanic, Jose. His shop is attached to a pulpareria, the Tico version of a convenience store. The word literally means "store for fleshy things." They sell all the staples that you could possibly need, except for fresh vegetables and meat. Canned beans, dry beans, bread, nails & screws, school notebooks, kids pajamas, soda. Sandra, Joses wife, takes care of the pulpareria while he takes care of the mechanic shop. Their places seems to be very busy with people stopping in to buy bread and milk before dinner and others on cars and motorcycles stopping to ask about repairs.
Jose agreed to drive back down to our car in this patchwork Jeep. He and his two chain-smoking assistants replaced the battery. That gave us enough juice to climb up the hill to his shop. He warned us that, because headlights drain so much energy, we would probably stall out if we tried to drive back that night. So his family dragged a mattress and extra blankets into a spare room in the pulpareria. (It is not everyday that I get to share a mattress with my research advisor on the floor of a pulperaria in a remote town in the Costa Rican highlands. This definitely goes on my list of firsts.)
After eating a can of refried beans and bread from the pulpareria, we watched the Costa Rica vs Estados Unidos soccer game with Jose, Sandra, and their two young daughters. Costa Rica won (obviously). Spending time with this family reminded me of the Quesadas. All the family members are very loving and respectful towards each other. It is a happy family; that is always nice to see.
The next day Chris and I sat on front porch of the pulpareria, waiting expectantly as Jose and the chain-smoking assistants inspected all the machinary under the hood. Since we had not planned on spending the night, neither of us brought extra socks, toothbrush, or any type of entertainment. So we spent that morning being very, very grimy, probably stinky, and slightly damp from our hike through the pastures the day before. We sat and waited, chatted, sat and waited some more, ate tuna fish and bread for lunch, sat and waited again, and discussed the necessities that we would put in our emergency box in case of another fizzled out battery. A disc and underwear were at the top of the list.
By the afternoon, Jose had successfully fixed our battery problems and also the four-wheel drive. Other mechanics near San Vito had told Martin that the four-wheel drive was irreparable. Clearly, Jose has a magic touch with cars as well as a loving, generous family. Back on the road again, Chris and I picked up Martin and Jose Pablo after they finished their work in Las Alturas forest and headed back to Las Cruces. Neither Chris nor I had the numbers for anyone we knew at Las Cruces. Chris luckily remembered the number for the main office, so we had called and left a rather disjointed message. Apparently, no one from the office had told our researcher-friends that we were safe and sound at a pulpareria in Aguas Calientes. By this time, we were exactly 24 hours late and had missed two meals. So when we finally stumbled into dinner, grimy and late, Anna, Melissa, and Emily all screeched a bit and told us that they thought that we had perished in the forest or gotten caught in the cross-fire of drug-trafficking or been captured by poachers hunting peccaries and researchers.
Now all is well. I have eaten a good, hot meal that did not include any canned food. I have showered. I have washed out all my dirty clothes and stuffed newspaper in my boots to dry them. I will sleep in my own bed with all the covers to myself. And tomorrow is another day of fieldwork!